Yukon Gold: Adding a new element to a classic route in Kluane National Park

For at least 350 years the A'ay chu River or more commonly known as Slim's River, was the main drainage to the monstrous Kluane Lake. This high volume river flowed approximately 15 miles from the base of the Kaskawulsh Glacier along the a wide valley to the southern end of the lake. However over the course of a few days in 2016, things changed dramatically.

(Kluane Lake, the dust storm under Sheep Ridge is where the river used to flow into the lake)

The explanation was simple but the results were catastrophic. The mighty 50 mile Kaskawulsh Glacier that used to drain to both the Slim's and Kaskawulsh rivers had finally receded to a point where it was no longer close enough to the Slim's valley for water to flow that way anymore. Just like that, a commonly flooded valley transformed into narrow wasteland with a creek meandering through it.

(Slim's River now, just a few years ago the river stretched across the valley.)

For nearly 50 years people have been hiking in along the west bank of the river to take in views of the Kaskawulsh Glacier. Some just go to the designated campsite site and view the glacier from there or close by but most are there to summit Observation mountain and see the magnitude of the glacier from above.

My intentions were quite different, first of all, I wanted to access the lake at the base of the glacier to paddle it. Then, if there was enough water in the River, I would paddle it most of the way out instead of walking the whole way back.

The trail to the campsite is classified as difficult. It is quite long at 22.5 kilometers and although the elevation doesn't change much, route finding can be difficult at times. It is also not recommended to camp at most other parts along the trail because of bears and it's forbidden to camp in the first few kilometers for historical and cultural reasons.

(Near the start of the trail)

After getting a backcountry permit for the desired amount of nights ( approx $9 a night) at the main visitor center in Haines Junction or the Tachäl Dähl visitor center just off the Alaska Highway, you would continue to the trailhead a couple kilometers beyond the Tachäl Dähl visitor center. (If you were considering doing the trip and paddling or following the river back to where it used to meet the lake instead of taking the trail back then it would be better to park at the visitor center for a shorter walk at the end of your trip.) Initially the trail follows an old mining road and proof of that is visible along the way as pieces of old machinery mark the sides of the old road every once in a while.Please do not tamper with or remove anything from a National Park.

(Remnants of mining)

The road itself becomes inconsistent relatively early on and is broken up by a creek crossing and a section of board walk over a long marsh. Once you reach Bullion Creek the road vanishes. Crossing the creek can be interesting as the flow can be quite strong and deep. After crossing the creek, I decided to take a break and make a coffee. This was my first time in the park and the Yukon in general. The mountains here were so much different than what I was used to and I had all the time in the world to take it in.

(Enjoying a coffee with a view at Bullion Creek)

I took 4 days for the trip but could have definitely done it much quicker. I was committed to 4 days because that was when my ride was coming back to get me. It could have been done easily in 2 or 3 days or even 1 big day.

My buddy and I camped just down the road from the turn off to the trailhead as you can camp pretty much anywhere in the Yukon free (outside of the park of course) and drove to the trailhead to make breakfast. After eating a massive breakfast of all my perishable food, I was on my way and my buddy left to climb a mountain close by.

Even with all the time I had the goal was to make it to the designated campsite 22.5 kilometers away that first day. Taking my time I took about 1.5 hours to get to Bullion Creek. I must have sat there for nearly a half hour though, it was easy to get lost in this place.

After the creek you go through some sand dunes and emerge into an open field near the river. This was where I saw my first bear.

(The dark silhouette of a large bear a couple hundred meters away headed in the same direction I am)

Even with the strong winds in his face and our distance, the bear was definitely aware of my presence. He stopped his lazy staunter and stood up on his back legs and looked over in my direction. I waited patiently for him to get far ahead of me to avoid contact further down the trail. He went back to his lazy stroll and I watched him until he disappeared from my view.

I started to head down the trail in the same direction myself and as result ended up right beside the sandy open river bed. The trail does continue along what used to be the rivers edge but I opted to stick to the sand. I took off my hiking boots and spent the next 6 kilometers walking barefoot in the sand surrounded by mountains. It was just unreal.

(My footprints in the sand as I head down the valley. The strong winds kick up dust in the background)

Just after kilometer 14 there is a large alluvial fan from a creek there that I used to get back to the trail. But as soon as I found it I pretty much lost it again as it went through a rocky brushy section. After a bit of route finding I was back on track and following it through a unique stunted forest. The dwarfed trees kept most of the wind away so I stopped here for lunch and another coffee.

As the trail emerged from the forest and back toward the river bed I finally saw what I wanted to see in it. There was actually water! I got excited as I followed the narrow glacier fed channel ran along the trail. It looked like I was going to be able to paddle some of the way out after all.

(The creek I would eventually float out)

A little further along the trail there is another random boardwalk for like a 100 meters just before you get the only elevation of the entire trail. As much as it sucks climbing a couple hundred meters after hiking about 15 miles it is necessary as it avoids an area of the exposed river bed that has quicksand. It really isn't too bad though and worth it for the views alone.

(The view from the high point on the trail heading down towards Canada Creek and the designated campsite)

The best part about being on the top of the hill is that you are one downhill kilometer away from the camping area. I showed up at the camping area around 2:30pm about 7 hours after leaving the trailhead that morning.

Their were two other tents but nobody around. I found a spot to put up my tent and unpacked my gear.

Normally when I'm camping I park my tent right out in the open so that when I wake up in the morning and open my tent to get smacked in the face with an epic view that wasn't happening. Had I done that here with the winds as they were my tent would have blown away. Reluctantly I put up my tent behind the trees. Blocking both the wind and an extraordinary view. I picked up my book and got lost in that for a while.

(The view from the creek at the campsite)

It wasn't long before I heard people and put down my book to go meet them. The people from the two tents had returned from walking around near the base of the glacier so I questioned them about the lake and access to it. The two couples had both hiked in on there own and met there. They spent that day hiking together though and were heading up Observation mountain (which loomed over us) together in the morning.

Through the evening three more groups came to climb the mountain the next day. A rad couple that rode fat bikes in most of the way. Two German couple that knew each other and then one random German dude named Ingo who seemed significantly out of place but was probably the most excited of all of us to be there. With not much more than some shitty camping gear, his jeans, like 40 granola bars and a great attitude, he was here to climb Observation Mountain too.

We all met up for breakfast except Ingo who was way too excited to wait and was already heading out as I was getting up. After some half boiled coffee and bland oatmeal I bid farewell to the group and I was off on my own adventure.

From the campsite I pretty much just went straight towards the glacier meandering slightly ever now and again to stick to favourable terrain. Shortly after passing the creek I ran into some sand dunes and then crossed the dry river bed to a wasteland of glacial recession with uneven ridges of sand and rocks hiding various sized pools and channels of water. The contrast in the landscape was only heightened by the dust storm that blew around as I crossed that baron place. I wasn't paying attention to the time but I figure it took me about an hour to make it the 3 or so kilometers and for at least half of that I felt like I was in another world.

(The dried up river meets the glacial recession)

When I finally made it to the lake I was just blown away. What a place to have to myself! So excited to paddle this amazing lake full of ice, I pulled out my raft and had it ready to go in no time. The shore line was a lot like clay but pretty solid . My feet barely sunk as I tip toed through it to the cold water and got in my boat. Time to go check out this glacier!

(Putting in at the lake)

(Checking out some of the ice)

(More of the glacier)

(Big rocks sit precariously on the melting ice)

(More ice)

As I paddled through the corridors of ice I realized that this lake must be formed on top of the glacier and most of the ice I was seeing was still connected under water. At some point that ice dam will break and alter the landscape once again but thankfully it didn't happen while I was around. There was some calving I'd heard a corridor over at one point and a couple small rocks fell off the glacier and hit me as I paddled by and that was enough excitement for me.

I got off lake and had lunch before heading towards the small lake I passed earlier to paddle that before heading back to camp. The lake wasn't more than a kilometer away so I kept my boat inflated and carried it over thinking it would be easier and faster but the gusts of wind had started to pick up and would pick up the boat as it did.

(Putting in at the second lake)

I was able to quickly snap this picture before my boat started to blow away. I grabbed it and my paddle and got on the water before it got worse. This water was so much bluer than the first lake and the contrast against the landscape was surreal.

(So unique looking)

(Stunning landscape)

(Winds picking up on the water)

By the time I had padded around the lake the wind was pretty full on and the waves were getting pretty big for this little lake. I got off the water and foolishly tried to get one more picture of my boat with the lake in the background. I ran a few steps back and raised my camera to take a picture when a huge gust of wind launched my boat into the air. It came right at me and hit my in the face! Normally that would be hilarious but as a result I dropped my camera which landed on a rock and smashed. Thankfully I was able keep the memory card and always have a back up camera on these trips because I always break cameras...

I packed up my boat and headed back to camp. Not stoked about my camera but so stoked about my day! I got back to camp before the others and read for a bit before making dinner. It wasn't long until Ingo came down the mountain with his jeans all dirty and wet and a huge grin on his face. He had made it to the summit of Observation Mountain although he was clearly proud himself, he was also quite realived to finally be done hiking. He grabbed some granola bars and joined me for dinner. Slowly the others trickled down in small groups and joined us for dinner and feeding Ingo with their leftovers.

If I remember correctly, Ingo was the only one who actually summited. His early start and great attitude paid off. All of us tired from our days, we said good night and went to our tents. The other good thing about being camped in trees other than being protected the wind was that it blocked the sun. Which in the Yukon, in the height of summer can be a good thing if you're trying to get some rest. I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have noticed it too much anyway. I closed my eyes and listened to the wind howl outside for maybe a minute before I fell asleep.

(Leaving the campsite on a dreary morning)

Everyone else was up pretty early the next morning. It was actually raining when most of the other parties left. I had the luxury of being able to sleep through it as I had nothing but time. My goal was to get to Bullion Creek, only 16 kilometers away to spend the night and ideally paddling most of it. Once the rain let up, I headed out to make breakfast.

The wind made cooking difficult the entire trip and this morning was no exception. Takes ten times as long to cook anything and just chews through your fuel. The half cooked Oatmeal and warmish instant coffee went down better than expected though. The benefit to wind was that my tent was already dry I packed up methodically and started the journey out.

(The area of the creek I didn't paddle out due to quicksand)

If I were to go back and do the trip again I would either paddle out the river from the lake itself or if I was leaving from the camping area I would follow Canada creek down until it intersected with the river and put in there.

But since I was alone and not familiar with the area I played it safe and hiked back up that shitty hill and put in on the other side of it avoiding the areas known for quicksand. This would also totally depend on the water level. You wouldn't want to have to get out of your boat while going though that area obviously.

(Looking down on where I was about to put my raft in the water.)

So I hiked about 4 kilometers back and put in where the river was closest to the trail at the bottom of the hill. I had packed well in the morning and everything I needed to get on the water was packed on the outside of my backpack.

After inflating my boat I grabbed a quick snack , put my rain cover over my backpack just in case it went for a float. Not even so much to keep it dry but my bag was the same color as the water and if it did somehow end up in the water, I might not have seen it.

(Putting in)

As if to reward me for what I was doing, the sun started to break through the clouds as soon as I started down the river. Thankfully the water was deep enough but the current was almost nonexistent. Initially I paddled hard to make up for it but as the clouds dispersed and the mountains and sun became the prominent features around me, my place slowed. I had no where I had to be really, I may as well enjoy this.

(The sun starting to break through)

As if something had clicked, any time frame or agenda I had disappeared. I had gone from a proper paddling position to that of a person floating in an inner tube before I knew it and for the next 3 hours I casually traveled at the pace of the current as I slowly spun in circles enjoying the incredible panoramic views that the valley had to offer.

( the clouds slowly peeling back to show off the mountains)

(What a relaxing way to enjoy such a dramatic place)

(The slow current allows the experience to last)

(Relaxing some more)

(Totally relaxed, best float ever)

Time, like the water, all but stopped. As I drifted slowly I felt almost like I was in a trance. The warm sun danced between the clouds as they drifted away changing the scenery so often that everytime I spun around I saw something new. Eventually the reality of the limited water flow and slow current ended up setting in once I started scraping bottom about a kilometer or 2 from where I would have liked to get out. There was still a bit of water though so I left my boat in there with my bag as I walked beside it, guiding it along with my paddle.

(Getting out for a snack when the water became too shallow to float)

I sauntered along the river bed slowly as I pulled my boat along. Although the float was slow it was still about as fast as the hike would have been and as result, I still had so much of the day left especially since the sun sets around midnight this time of year.

(Back on the trail looking back toward the river bed)

It wasn't long before the water was too shallow for even my boat. I packed up my gear and my boat which was pretty much covered in clay by then. Happy to be storing it on the outside of my backpack that's for sure! I was packed up in minutes and started heading towards where the trail was. The open landscape makes it so easy to place yourself and within a short time I was back on the trail and heading towards Bullion Creek.

(My camp for the night)

I set up my tent and headed to the creek a couple hundred meters away to do some cooking. A few minutes into I noticed a dark mass moving on the other side of the creek.

A large grizzly bear was now standing up scratching it's back on the only dead tree around. While the bear was still a few hundred meters away and preoccupied, I turned off my stove and slowly backed away towards my camp. I wasn't sure if the bear had come to the creek in pursuit of my dinner or in search of his own but I was going to make sure that I found out from a distance.

The bear slowly made it's way down the creek heading towards the river. He stayed on his side though at least until he was out of sight. Apparently he was about as into my crappy dried food as much as I was...

The rest of the evening was uneventful . I went back to cooking and eating by the creek and even had a hot chocolate while keeping an eye out for the bear. By the time I was finished the sun had sunk enough that the surrounding mountains were starting to block it. After a few more pics and a little more appreciation for this trip, I retired to my tent for the night wishing it wasn't all going to be over the next day.

(Perfect ending to a perfect day)

The next morning I slept in as long as I could but with yesterday being as chill as it was I didn't need much rest, I wasn't up too much after the sun. It was a beautiful morning and I enjoyed it while I sipped a hot coffee at the creek followed by more coffee and breakfast. After doing my dishes it was back to camp to pack up and head out.

(Heading out on the last morning)

The 6 kilometer hike out went too quickly and before I knew it I was reading at the picnic table in the parking lot that I'd eaten breakfast at on the first morning. Thankfully, my ride was early and after loading my gear and sharing some of my adventure we were headed to Tachäl Dähl visitor center to report back safe and stoked. As I mentioned earlier the trip can be done a variety of ways and take as much or as little time as you like. There are side trips available from this route and even a more challenging whitewater route that could be a potential option out. Routes and length of trip have to be established and explained in detail to the rangers while obtaining your back country camping permits.

(Crossing Sheep Creek on the way out)

To mimic this trip you would need your standard multi day hiking trip essentials. I would definitely bring a wind screen for your stove as well as extra fuel as the wind makes it difficult to cook. You also need a bear proof food container to camp in the backcountry in the park but you can rent them from the park visitor center in Haines Junction when you register. Bearspray is a must as well

Of course ,you would also need your Packraft and a collapsible paddle as well as a light drysuit or a wetsuit. Although it wouldn't be likely, it will surely be extremely cold if you were to end up in the water, especially in the lake. Some sort of PFD of course and whatever dry bags and safety equipment you require. Water shoes are not only great for the paddle but the creek crossings aswell.

I did the trip mid July and if were do it again. I'd likely go earlier when the water levels are higher so I could paddle more of it. I would call this a really great introductory trip to the area for any skill level. Looking for more? There are many rivers, creeks and lakes the to paddle throughout the park that range in difficulty and accessibility and potentially even a different paddle out to this trip along the Kaskawulsh River.

All the info you need including access to topographic maps are available at the park visitor center.

Have fun out there!

Matthew Bruce

@creekstopeaks